Peak Climbed: Bugaboo Spire

Peak Height: 10,512'

Route: Northeast Ridge

Difficulty: 5.8

Location: Bugaboo Provincial Park, Canada

Trailhead: Bugaboo Spires

Mileage & Gain: 3 mi & 2,500 RT from camp

Date Climbed: August 21, 2017

Bugaboo Spire, namesake peak of the famed Bugaboos. The northeast ridge is one of the fifty classic (aka most crowded) climbs in North America. However Dom and I were slightly disappointed given all the hype this route gets. Maybe the cold had something to do with our lukewarm impression. Notably, the temperature drop during the partial eclipse mid day was very noticable and unwelcome on this already chilly day. Also, the crowds were in effect. We were second in line with several other parties behind us. Also the approach to the base of the route is pretty terrible and slightly frightening, especially in the dark.

The northwest ridge route ends on the northern (and lower) of the two Bugaboo Spire summits, but the job is far from done. The ridge traverse to the southern summit (highpoint) and subsequent descent down the Kain route, though stunning, is tedious and never ending. Tagging the south summit requires an additional pitch after the traverse and most climbers aren't interested. Us peakbaggers, on the other hand...