Peak Climbed: Castle Rock

Peak Height: 1,860'

Route: Canary

Difficulty: 5.8+

Location: Leavenworth, Washington

Trailhead: Castle Rock pullout

Mileage & Gain: 0.6 mi & 500 ft RT

Date Climbed: June 30, 2019

Poised above the Wenatchee River, Castle Rock hosts the most popular cragging in the Leavenworth area. This piece of rock has a rich climbing history dating back more than 70 years. In 1948 Fred Beckey and pals established Washington’s first multi pitch route here - Midway [5.6].

We didn’t climb that historic original line, but another two pitch Beckey classic called Canary that has become even more popular. The climbing is interesting and exposed, and the position absolutely beautiful, but the greasiness of this overloved route, particularly on the first pitch, detracted from its appeal for me.

Regardless, Castle Rock is a worthy destination for a day if you’re in the area. We also climbed Damnation Crack [5.9] which was fabulous, and Slim Pickins [5.10+] which was pretty good too, both much less greasy.