Crooked Arrow Spire
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via Longbow Chimney [5.9 C1]
Castle Valley, Utah
October 19, 2012


A 4x4 road up Ida Gulch in Castle Valley provides the easiest access to "Crooked Arrow Spire", a detached pinnacle on the north end of Parriot Mesa (right). The spire can't be seen from most vantage points because it blends into the steep cliffs behind it and is separated by only a very narrow gap.
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via Longbow Chimney [5.9 C1]
Castle Valley, Utah
October 19, 2012


A steep climbers trail leads from Ida Gulch to the base of "Crooked Arrow Spire". That's the Convent in the background, or the Covenant if you like. Same thing, eh?
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via Longbow Chimney [5.9 C1]
Castle Valley, Utah
October 19, 2012


"Crooked Arrow Spire" finally comes into view near the end of the half mile, 1000 foot approach hike.
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via Longbow Chimney [5.9 C1]
Castle Valley, Utah
October 19, 2012


Dominic takes the lead for the short first pitch.
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via Longbow Chimney [5.9 C1]
Castle Valley, Utah
October 19, 2012


Brian belays while Dominic surmounts a somehwat suspect stack of large chockstones to gain access to the chimney above. A few dirty 5.9 moves are required.
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via Longbow Chimney [5.9 C1]
Castle Valley, Utah
October 19, 2012
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via Longbow Chimney [5.9 C1]
Castle Valley, Utah
October 19, 2012


Pete following the first pitch. The crux for us followers here is enduring the near constant stream of sand being funneled down by the rope above as we try to look up to find our next hold!
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via Longbow Chimney [5.9 C1]
Castle Valley, Utah
October 19, 2012


Brian deep in Longbow Chimney. It feels like we're canyoneering!
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via Longbow Chimney [5.9 C1]
Castle Valley, Utah
October 19, 2012


Pete hanging out atop the first pitch at the edge of the chimney.
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via Longbow Chimney [5.9 C1]
Castle Valley, Utah
October 19, 2012


Brian the chimneyphobe is very happy to have talked someone else into leading pitch two. Dominic happily takes on the long 5.8 chimney.
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via Longbow Chimney [5.9 C1]
Castle Valley, Utah
October 19, 2012


Looking back at Pete from deep inside Longbow Chimney.
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via Longbow Chimney [5.9 C1]
Castle Valley, Utah
October 19, 2012


Brian starts up the classic chimney. If you love chimneys it doesn't get much better than this.
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via Longbow Chimney [5.9 C1]
Castle Valley, Utah
October 19, 2012


Dominic belaying me from the top of the chimney. Now too wide to climb, pitch three breaches the summit by brute force. There is a "bolt" ladder on the steep, shaded face above Dominic's head.
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via Longbow Chimney [5.9 C1]
Castle Valley, Utah
October 19, 2012


Dominic managing the belay station.
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via Longbow Chimney [5.9 C1]
Castle Valley, Utah
October 19, 2012


Now its time for Brian's specialty: aiding up suspicious, ancient fixed gear.
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via Longbow Chimney [5.9 C1]
Castle Valley, Utah
October 19, 2012


A piton and then one or two C1 gear placements lead around the corner to the ladder.
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via Longbow Chimney [5.9 C1]
Castle Valley, Utah
October 19, 2012


Its steep!
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via Longbow Chimney [5.9 C1]
Castle Valley, Utah
October 19, 2012


Pete & I at the belay.
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via Longbow Chimney [5.9 C1]
Castle Valley, Utah
October 19, 2012


As I belay I occasionally prepare for the yank when I hear phrases like: “ok, this one doesn't look too good so watch me... ooh, I'm standing on it and its starting to come out”.
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via Longbow Chimney [5.9 C1]
Castle Valley, Utah
October 19, 2012


Miraculously they all hold and Brian's on the tiny summit lickity split... which is of course a relative term when you're aid climbing.
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via Longbow Chimney [5.9 C1]
Castle Valley, Utah
October 19, 2012


Pete getting ready to jug the pitch.
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via Longbow Chimney [5.9 C1]
Castle Valley, Utah
October 19, 2012
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via Longbow Chimney [5.9 C1]
Castle Valley, Utah
October 19, 2012
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via Longbow Chimney [5.9 C1]
Castle Valley, Utah
October 19, 2012


One of the bolt ladder steps.
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via Longbow Chimney [5.9 C1]
Castle Valley, Utah
October 19, 2012


Another bolt ladder step.
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via Longbow Chimney [5.9 C1]
Castle Valley, Utah
October 19, 2012


View of Castle Valley from the summit of "Crooked Arrow Spire".
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via Longbow Chimney [5.9 C1]
Castle Valley, Utah
October 19, 2012


View north toward the Colorado River and Professor Valley.
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via Longbow Chimney [5.9 C1]
Castle Valley, Utah
October 19, 2012


Pete on the summit.
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via Longbow Chimney [5.9 C1]
Castle Valley, Utah
October 19, 2012


Three amigos on the summit.
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via Longbow Chimney [5.9 C1]
Castle Valley, Utah
October 19, 2012


Brian prepares to rap the route.
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via Longbow Chimney [5.9 C1]
Castle Valley, Utah
October 19, 2012


Looking down Longbow Chimney as Brian rappels.
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via Longbow Chimney [5.9 C1]
Castle Valley, Utah
October 19, 2012


Parting shot of "Crooked Arrow Spire".
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via Longbow Chimney [5.9 C1]
Castle Valley, Utah
October 19, 2012


Castle Valley from Ida Gulch 4x4 road.