Grand Teton via Upper Exum Ridge
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


Garnet Canyon is the standard approach for the Grand Teton. Nez Perce (11,901 ft) is in the center of the photo.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


Hiking over large boulders just below the Meadows camping area at 9,200 ft. The top of the Middle Teton can be seen above.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


Pete hiking through the moraine area below the Lower Saddle. 1,000 more feet to camp from here.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


Middle Teton and Middle Teton Glacier.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10,


Looking up at the Grand Teton from below the Lower Saddle.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


Pete takes advantage of the fixed ropes just below the Lower Saddle. The scrambling isn't too tough but its kind of exposed and awkward with huge packs. Dominic shows off by climbing unprotected next to him :)
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


Dominic and the Middle Teton.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


Jaime and Jason making dinner at camp below the Grand Teton.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


Dinnertime for Pete and Adam.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


The Middle Teton and the Exum Guide camp at the Lower Saddle.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


View west from the Lower Saddle. Ahhh... the smell of piss. We were instructed to pee off the west side of the saddle to keep the east side clean for drinking water. Nasty stench here. The crapper is for crapping only in the carryout bags provided by the Park Service.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


Camp below the Grand Teton.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


Sunset at the Lower Saddle.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


We arrive at Wall Street shortly after first light. The typical rope up point is at the end of this wide ledge.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


Adam scrambling up Wall Street.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


Dominic contemplating the Golden Staircase. Easy but exposed climbing here.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


Adam just past the wildly exposed step-around move at the end of Wall Street. Both he and Dominic protected it well with a single #3 cam. The big boulder behind him is perfect for securing a bomber belay stance to bring seconds past the short obstacle without having to construct any sort of anchor.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


Dominic on easy scrambling terrain at the start of the Wind Tunnel.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


Dominic about to tackle a 5th class bouldering problem in the Wind Tunnel.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


He needs his hands free to make the moves so he drops the short coil.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


Once on top he gives me a quick terrain belay.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


And tackles another short 5th class problem.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


Cool slit in Exum Ridge.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


Interesting boulder on Exum Ridge.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


Another short easy 5th class bit.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


Looking toward Middle and South Tetons from Upper Exum Ridge. There is a fair amount of smoke in the area from wildfires.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


We catch up with a very large group that is part of an outdoor leadership program. Despite their numbers they are moving at a respectable pace. The weather is good and the other half of our team is a few pitches behind us so we're happy to hang around and enjoy the views on this fine warm morning.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


Scrambling up a steep but easy dihedral.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


Looking down Exum Ridge.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


Climber on the infamous Friction Pitch.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


Me leading the Friction Pitch. Dominic and I both felt like this was the crux of the route. It felt hard enough that I wanted some protection. I placed two pieces down low and then had to run it out over slab with a few thoughtful moves. I never saw the piton that lives here.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


Dominic enjoying the views on this strange weather morning. The forecast calls for 70% chance of precip but we're sitting pretty right now and have time to be casual.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


Above the friction pitch we don't feel the need for any more pro.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


Fun scrambling high on the route.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


Dominic scrambling up a steep but easy section of rock below me.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


The group ahead tackling the final 5th class pitch.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


Dominic peruses some reading material as we dawdle below the summit.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


Dominic on the Grand Teton. We hung out on the summit for quite some time and had it all to ourselves which seemed surreal given how crowded the whole area felt.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


A bit restless, we eventually scrambled back down a bit to meet up with our other half. Pete and Adam materialized quickly, happy to have succeeded in their 1st alpine lead climbing.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


Adam looking toward the summit after having just completed his first technical alpine climb! He did an impressive job.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


Adam just below the summit. Gotta love that flashy outfit.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


Our crew beginning the descent down the Owen Spalding Route. We're following a couple that ascended this route and know the way so its a piece of cake.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


Adam rapping Sargent's Chimney.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


We teamed up with the party of two for the rappels. Here they and Adam are awaiting our turn at the final rappel station.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


Adam rigging the final rappel. Although its somewhat easier to rappel using double ropes here, any climber with some rapping experience will have no problem with the single rope option.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


The last part of the rappel is free hanging.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


Plenty of downclimbing left ahead of us.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


Lots of very unique and beautiful rock on this mountain. Not incredibly grippy but solid and pretty.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


Pete executing an exposed step-around move just above the Eye of the Needle.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


Pete entering the Eye of the Needle.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


Dominic emerging from the Eye of the Needle.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


Headed for camp in the Lower Saddle.
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Teton Range, Wyoming
August 10, 2012


Dominic using fixed ropes to descend the steep rock below the Lower Saddle. We're headed down to the Meadows to camp for the night.