Situated a mere 85 miles north of New York City, The Shawangunk Mountains (or Gunks for short) are home to one of the oldest climbing areas in the country. Climbing activity began way back in 1935 before the Yosemite Decimal scale even existed! Many routes saw their first ascents in the 1940's. Today the solid conglomerate cliffs remain a premier climbing destination. Characterized by steep rock, plentiful roofs, and delightful jugs, its easy to understand why. This place is one heck of a playground if you've got the endurance.
On this, our first visit to the climbing mecca of our home state, my little brother Andy and I tested the waters on some 5.5 Gunks classics. Everything you read about Gunks routes feeling stiff for their grade is true! I have never been on 5.5s this steep. I have never had so much fun climbing 5.5. And this is the only time I would ever describe placing gear on a 5.5 as "strenuous"! SO MUCH FUN!
Minty (5.3, 3 pitches)
Finger Locks or Cedar Box (5.5, 1 pitch)
Hyjek's Horror (5.8+, 1 pitch)
Bunny (5.4, 1 pitch)
Double Chin (5.5, 1 pitch)
Horseman (5.5, 1 pitch)
Dennis (5.5, 2 pitches)
Jackie (5.5, 2 pitches)