In the heart of Zion's backcountry, immediately east of Greatheart Mesa, lies an interesting unnamed summit that CP dubbed "The Hourglass". The route we took descends Wildcat Canyon and crosses the Left Fork before climbing the peak's north ridge, taking a detour onto the northwest face near the top. The crux was 20 feet of exposed 4th class climbing on the northwest face.


Alpenglow on "Wildcat Peak" above Wildcat Canyon.


The approach to "The Hourglass" involves descending non-technical Wildcat Canyon.


"The Hourglass" makes its first appearance several miles in.


Left to right: "The Hourglass, Greatheart Mesa, and "Ram's Peak".


"Wildcat Peak" lies to the west of Wildcat Canyon.


We climbed "Ram's Peak" from the other side but it looks like this would work too.


Starting up the north ridge of "The Hourglass".


Greatheart Mesa looks climbable from this side too.


We traverse on the west side of the ridge to escape the biting wind.


Things are about to get interesting.



Downclimbing to a small notch in the ridge.


The wind finally forces us into our shells.


We're near the head of the Right Fork.


Scrambling on the north ridge.


Beginning to traverse off the ridge and onto the northwest face.


What turns out to be the exposed 4th class crux of the route.


Who wouldn't love such a solid, friendly tree?


Heading for the summit.


Dom climbing the summit block.


Greatheart Mesa as seen from "The Hourglass".



Looking down the Right Fork.


Dom on the summit plateau.


Third class brush downclimb.



Dirty gully leading to the summit plateau.


Downclimbing the crux.


Heading back along the north ridge.



Cool notch in the ridge.



Reversing an interesting ledge traverse.


Home | My Peak List | Utah | Trip Reports