Lighthouse Tower

April 16, 2014

Lonely Vigil [5.10] on Lighthouse Tower seems to be an increasingly popular climb, thanks at least in part to its appearance in Stewart Green's recent Best Climbs Moab guidebook. Noah & I crossed paths with two other parties on our Thursday afternoon ascent of this four pitch route. I suspect the fact that its less than 10 miles from downtown Moab has much to do with the frequency at which it gets climbed because I found it far from worthy of classic status. As desert towers go the climbing is pretty good with a bit of nice crack and a cool stem box but the tower itself is nothing to write home about.

Approach Pitch [5.7] - Somewhat chossy but easy climbing

P1 [5.10] - Awkward handcrack over bulge to easier offwidth to mixed crack and face

P2 [5.10] - Tight handcrack to wild stem box with jug finish

P3 [5.9] - Exposed sidewalk to a few easy slab moves

P4 [5.8+ R] - Overhung summit block w/ no anchor,
must be downclimbed or do a sketchy lower with rope over summit block

Dolomite Spire (just left of center) & Lighthouse Tower (just right of center) as seen on the approach from UT-128.

Views of the Big Bend area of the Colorado River are superb from here!

A somewhat chossy 5.7 pitch is required to reach the notch and access the east side of the tower where Lonely Vigil is located.

Looking down the approach pitch at Noah from the notch.

Noah leading the "business", the 1st two pitches.

Starting the short and easy 4th pitch.

Looking up the 4th pitch at the final belay below the summit.

Noah leading the short summit pitch.

Big Bend as seen from Lighthouse Tower.

Dolomite Spire as seen from Lighthouse Tower's anchorless summit and Noah rapping the third pitch.

Another party is ascending the second pitch as we rap down.

Dolomite Spire and Lighthouse Tower as seen from UT-128.

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