Peak Name: Monkey Face

Peak Height: 3,250'

Location: Smith Rock State Park, Oregon

Route: West Face Variation

Difficulty: 5.8 C0

Round Trip Stats: 3 mi, 1100 ft

Date Climbed: 5/2/2016

This odd pinnacle that has come to be known as Monkey Face is the centerpiece of Smith Rock State Park. Standing in stark contrast to the rolling green countryside that surrounds it, Monkey Face never escapes a gaze. Most reasonable routes to the top require both free and aid climbing. It was a pain dragging aid gear and double ropes along on this trip in addition to the huge rock rack and mountaineering gear we needed for other objectives, but I'm glad we did. This was a really unique climb!

We chose the popular West Face Variation and climbed it in four pitches; some do it in five. The first pitch is well protected 5.8 and long. The second pitch, at least the way we did it, is 5.8+ and even longer. Many break this section into two pitches and there are easier variations that keep the climbing at 5.7. Our third pitch was the easy bolt ladder that leads up into the monkey's mouth. This is the second pitch of the shorter and easier standard route that goes at 5.7 C0. The final pitch starts with a heady 5.7 traverse out of the mouth and finishes on slighty easier but runout terrain. Double ropes are required for the descent.