P1000862mod
Teakettle Mountain
Winter Ascent
March 15, 2011


Potosi Peak under a rosy dawn as seen from the famous outhouse at 11,300 feet in Yankee Boy Basin.

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Teakettle Mountain
Winter Ascent
March 15, 2011


Just past the outhouse we leave the road and begin to climb north toward Teakettle Mountain.

P1000871mod
Teakettle Mountain
Winter Ascent
March 15, 2011


The slope ends up being steeper than it looks from below and the snow is very firm; we're at the edge of our comfort level with snowshoes on and our heel elevators are much appreciated. "Kismet" and Cirque Mountain can bee seen in the background.

P1000873mod
Teakettle Mountain
Winter Ascent
March 15, 2011


Ken leads as we approach the little basin just south of Teakettle.

P1000875mod
Teakettle Mountain
Winter Ascent
March 15, 2011


We're anxious to round the corner and get our first look at the south couloir. It can't be seen from anywhere on the approach or even from higher in Yankee Boy Basin.

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Teakettle Mountain
Winter Ascent
March 15, 2011


Hiking into the basin directly south of Teakettle Mountain. The south couloir is the wide finger of snow left of center.

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Teakettle Mountain
Winter Ascent
March 15, 2011


A closer look at the south couloir. Disclaimer: In Ken's words, this is a "death trap couloir". It is often unsafe in winter and should only be attempted under the best of conditions.

P1000883mod
Teakettle Mountain
Winter Ascent
March 15, 2011


Looking back out of the basin it seems the earth drops away suddenly. Stony Mountain is right of center.

P1000884mod
Teakettle Mountain
Winter Ascent
March 15, 2011


Dominic leads the way to the base of the couloir. There is a convenient moat below the rock face on the right side where we'll stash snowshoes and gear up for the climb.

P1000897mod
Teakettle Mountain
Winter Ascent
March 15, 2011


Dominic and Ken start up the couloir in moderate snow. Ankle deep steps are easily kicked and the snow feels wonderfully solid.

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Teakettle Mountain
Winter Ascent
March 15, 2011


Looking back down the south couloir.

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Teakettle Mountain
Winter Ascent
March 15, 2011


The south couloir is a very aesthetic line.

P1000907mod
Teakettle Mountain
Winter Ascent
March 15, 2011


Dominic takes a well deserved rest at the back of the line.

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Teakettle Mountain
Winter Ascent
March 15, 2011

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Teakettle Mountain
Winter Ascent
March 15, 2011


Ken enjoying the near perfect snow conditions.

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Teakettle Mountain
Winter Ascent
March 15, 2011


Gilpin Peak provides a nice backdrop.

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Teakettle Mountain
Winter Ascent
March 15, 2011


Ken nearing the top of the couloir.

P1000922mod
Teakettle Mountain
Winter Ascent
March 15, 2011


Ken exits the couloir east onto the south face. The summit is still several hundred vertical feet above.

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Teakettle Mountain
Winter Ascent
March 15, 2011


Dominic hangs a handline down an icy rock step for Ken to grab if he wants to.

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Teakettle Mountain
Winter Ascent
March 15, 2011


Dominic and Ken on Teakettle's south face. Smooth and snowy... take that you stupid scree!!! We know you're under there!

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Teakettle Mountain
Winter Ascent
March 15, 2011

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Teakettle Mountain
Winter Ascent
March 15, 2011


Behold... the famous 5th class summit block! Tea party anyone?

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Teakettle Mountain
Winter Ascent
March 15, 2011


Dominic cautiously traverses along the snowy ridge toward the teakettle.

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Teakettle Mountain
Winter Ascent
March 15, 2011


The final traverse on snow into a comfortable moat on the east side of the summit block was a bit steep and exposed. I did it unroped once pretty comfortably but welcomed a belay a few other times when the rope was readily available.

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Teakettle Mountain
Winter Ascent
March 15, 2011


Ken making his way along the summit ridge.

P1000938mod
Teakettle Mountain
Winter Ascent
March 15, 2011


Looking up at Dominic as he leads the summit pitch and I belay him from the moat directly below. This first bit is very steep but fun snow. Dominic found two good nut placements here.

P1000939mod
Teakettle Mountain
Winter Ascent
March 15, 2011


Ken traverses toward the summit block as Dominic belays him from the summit.

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Teakettle Mountain
Winter Ascent
March 15, 2011


Ken starts up the difficulties.

P1000945mod
Teakettle Mountain
Winter Ascent
March 15, 2011


Ken oozes around the corner.

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Teakettle Mountain
Winter Ascent
March 15, 2011


Ken and Dominic jubilant on the summit.

P1000951mod
Teakettle Mountain
Winter Ascent
March 15, 2011


Ken reverses the traverse and I prepare for my turn.

P1000952mod
Teakettle Mountain
Winter Ascent
March 15, 2011


Potosi Peak makes me drool. What a beautiful sight. Coffeepot can be seen in front of Potosi.

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Teakettle Mountain
Winter Ascent
March 15, 2011


Mount Sneffels (center), "Kismet" and Cirque Mountain (right) as seen from the top of Teakettle Mountain. Dallas Peak and "T0" can be seen in the background on the far left.

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Teakettle Mountain
Winter Ascent
March 15, 2011


Thirteeners Mount Ridgway and Whitehouse Mountain to the northeast.

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Teakettle Mountain
Winter Ascent
March 15, 2011


Dominic and Ken begin the descent in the softening snow. It's hot!

P1000959mod
Teakettle Mountain
Winter Ascent
March 15, 2011


Our descent of the couloir is quick and uneventful. After de-gearing in the moat at its base we stroll back down into the small basin.

P1000960mod
Teakettle Mountain
Winter Ascent
March 15, 2011


Looking toward the more standard route... sloughs galore including one very large one. "Coffeepot" can be seen near the center.

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Teakettle Mountain
Winter Ascent
March 15, 2011


Leaving the basin.

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Teakettle Mountain
Winter Ascent
March 15, 2011


Parting shot.

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Teakettle Mountain
Winter Ascent
March 15, 2011


Ken and Dominic ready for the descent into Yankee Boy.

P1000969mod
Teakettle Mountain
Winter Ascent
March 15, 2011


Hiking the shelf road.

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Teakettle Mountain
Winter Ascent
March 15, 2011


I'm not sure what's creepier: driving this in summer or walking it in winter.