Potosi Peak under a rosy dawn as seen from the famous outhouse at 11,300 feet in Yankee Boy Basin.
Teakettle Mountain Winter Ascent March 15, 2011
Just past the outhouse we leave the road and begin to climb north toward Teakettle Mountain.
Teakettle Mountain Winter Ascent March 15, 2011
The slope ends up being steeper than it looks from below and the snow is very firm; we're at the edge of our comfort level with snowshoes on and our heel elevators are much appreciated. "Kismet" and Cirque Mountain can bee seen in the background.
Teakettle Mountain Winter Ascent March 15, 2011
Ken leads as we approach the little basin just south of Teakettle.
Teakettle Mountain Winter Ascent March 15, 2011
We're anxious to round the corner and get our first look at the south couloir. It can't be seen from anywhere on the approach or even from higher in Yankee Boy Basin.
Teakettle Mountain Winter Ascent March 15, 2011
Hiking into the basin directly south of Teakettle Mountain. The south couloir is the wide finger of snow left of center.
Teakettle Mountain Winter Ascent March 15, 2011
A closer look at the south couloir. Disclaimer: In Ken's words, this is a "death trap couloir". It is often unsafe in winter and should only be attempted under the best of conditions.
Teakettle Mountain Winter Ascent March 15, 2011
Looking back out of the basin it seems the earth drops away suddenly. Stony Mountain is right of center.
Teakettle Mountain Winter Ascent March 15, 2011
Dominic leads the way to the base of the couloir. There is a convenient moat below the rock face on the right side where we'll stash snowshoes and gear up for the climb.
Teakettle Mountain Winter Ascent March 15, 2011
Dominic and Ken start up the couloir in moderate snow. Ankle deep steps are easily kicked and the snow feels wonderfully solid.
Teakettle Mountain Winter Ascent March 15, 2011
Looking back down the south couloir.
Teakettle Mountain Winter Ascent March 15, 2011
The south couloir is a very aesthetic line.
Teakettle Mountain Winter Ascent March 15, 2011
Dominic takes a well deserved rest at the back of the line.
Teakettle Mountain Winter Ascent March 15, 2011
Teakettle Mountain Winter Ascent March 15, 2011
Ken enjoying the near perfect snow conditions.
Teakettle Mountain Winter Ascent March 15, 2011
Gilpin Peak provides a nice backdrop.
Teakettle Mountain Winter Ascent March 15, 2011
Ken nearing the top of the couloir.
Teakettle Mountain Winter Ascent March 15, 2011
Ken exits the couloir east onto the south face. The summit is still several hundred vertical feet above.
Teakettle Mountain Winter Ascent March 15, 2011
Dominic hangs a handline down an icy rock step for Ken to grab if he wants to.
Teakettle Mountain Winter Ascent March 15, 2011
Dominic and Ken on Teakettle's south face. Smooth and snowy... take that you stupid scree!!! We know you're under there!
Teakettle Mountain Winter Ascent March 15, 2011
Teakettle Mountain Winter Ascent March 15, 2011
Behold... the famous 5th class summit block! Tea party anyone?
Teakettle Mountain Winter Ascent March 15, 2011
Dominic cautiously traverses along the snowy ridge toward the teakettle.
Teakettle Mountain Winter Ascent March 15, 2011
The final traverse on snow into a comfortable moat on the east side of the summit block was a bit steep and exposed. I did it unroped once pretty comfortably but welcomed a belay a few other times when the rope was readily available.
Teakettle Mountain Winter Ascent March 15, 2011
Ken making his way along the summit ridge.
Teakettle Mountain Winter Ascent March 15, 2011
Looking up at Dominic as he leads the summit pitch and I belay him from the moat directly below. This first bit is very steep but fun snow. Dominic found two good nut placements here.
Teakettle Mountain Winter Ascent March 15, 2011
Ken traverses toward the summit block as Dominic belays him from the summit.
Teakettle Mountain Winter Ascent March 15, 2011
Ken starts up the difficulties.
Teakettle Mountain Winter Ascent March 15, 2011
Ken oozes around the corner.
Teakettle Mountain Winter Ascent March 15, 2011
Ken and Dominic jubilant on the summit.
Teakettle Mountain Winter Ascent March 15, 2011
Ken reverses the traverse and I prepare for my turn.
Teakettle Mountain Winter Ascent March 15, 2011
Potosi Peak makes me drool. What a beautiful sight. Coffeepot can be seen in front of Potosi.
Teakettle Mountain Winter Ascent March 15, 2011
Mount Sneffels (center), "Kismet" and Cirque Mountain (right) as seen from the top of Teakettle Mountain. Dallas Peak and "T0" can be seen in the background on the far left.
Teakettle Mountain Winter Ascent March 15, 2011
Thirteeners Mount Ridgway and Whitehouse Mountain to the northeast.
Teakettle Mountain Winter Ascent March 15, 2011
Dominic and Ken begin the descent in the softening snow. It's hot!
Teakettle Mountain Winter Ascent March 15, 2011
Our descent of the couloir is quick and uneventful. After de-gearing in the moat at its base we stroll back down into the small basin.
Teakettle Mountain Winter Ascent March 15, 2011
Looking toward the more standard route... sloughs galore including one very large one. "Coffeepot" can be seen near the center.
Teakettle Mountain Winter Ascent March 15, 2011
Leaving the basin.
Teakettle Mountain Winter Ascent March 15, 2011
Parting shot.
Teakettle Mountain Winter Ascent March 15, 2011
Ken and Dominic ready for the descent into Yankee Boy.
Teakettle Mountain Winter Ascent March 15, 2011
Hiking the shelf road.
Teakettle Mountain Winter Ascent March 15, 2011
I'm not sure what's creepier: driving this in summer or walking it in winter.
Winter Ascent
March 15, 2011
Potosi Peak under a rosy dawn as seen from the famous outhouse at 11,300 feet in Yankee Boy Basin.