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The Three Marys
Eastern and Middle summits
Zion National Park
April 19, 2010


The West Temple and the Three Marys (right) as seen from Black Canyon. Our goal today is to summit East Mary and Middle Mary, the two peaks on the far right. West Mary is reportedly a highly technical endeavor. The Three Marys are part of the famous Towers of the Virgin.

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The Three Marys
Eastern and Middle summits
Zion National Park
April 19, 2010


A lesser seen view of The Watchman and Johnson Mountain on the approach to the Three Marys.

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The Three Marys
Eastern and Middle summits
Zion National Park
April 19, 2010


Dominic scrambles along the base of East Mary's vertical south face.

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The Three Marys
Eastern and Middle summits
Zion National Park
April 19, 2010


A fun, exposed 4th class ramp/arete east of the vertical cliffs leads us toward a key chute on East Mary's south face.

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The Three Marys
Eastern and Middle summits
Zion National Park
April 19, 2010


This crumbly, downsloping mess must be traversed to continue up the gully. Its probably no harder than 3rd class but given the poor rock quality and exposure we decided to rope up to be on the safe side.

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The Three Marys
Eastern and Middle summits
Zion National Park
April 19, 2010


Dominic prepares for the chossy traverse.

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The Three Marys
Eastern and Middle summits
Zion National Park
April 19, 2010


A solid cam placement will hopefully do the trick.

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The Three Marys
Eastern and Middle summits
Zion National Park
April 19, 2010


Safely across and preparing for a short 5th class bit.

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The Three Marys
Eastern and Middle summits
Zion National Park
April 19, 2010


Dominic leads a short 5.4ish pitch, the crux in attaining the the summit of East Mary. Rock quailty was poor; holds broke off without much encouragement.

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The Three Marys
Eastern and Middle summits
Zion National Park
April 19, 2010


Trees are the most trustworthy anchors here. This one is conveniently positioned atop the short 5th class crux.

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The Three Marys
Eastern and Middle summits
Zion National Park
April 19, 2010


Dominic stems up a short chimney at the top of the gully.

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The Three Marys
Eastern and Middle summits
Zion National Park
April 19, 2010


At the top of the chute we veer west and continue scrambling up an obvious weakness.

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The Three Marys
Eastern and Middle summits
Zion National Park
April 19, 2010


Dominic nearing the top of East Mary.

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The Three Marys
Eastern and Middle summits
Zion National Park
April 19, 2010


Dominic on top of East Mary. The Towers of the Virgin are a stunning sight to behold! The red-stained peak on the right is the aptly named Alter of Sacrifice.

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The Three Marys
Eastern and Middle summits
Zion National Park
April 19, 2010


A short, very brushy scramble takes us from the top of the eastern summit to the saddle between it and the central summit. Here we're beginning the climb up Middle Mary.

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The Three Marys
Eastern and Middle summits
Zion National Park
April 19, 2010

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The Three Marys
Eastern and Middle summits
Zion National Park
April 19, 2010


Parts of the route are fairly exposed.

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The Three Marys
Eastern and Middle summits
Zion National Park
April 19, 2010

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The Three Marys
Eastern and Middle summits
Zion National Park
April 19, 2010

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The Three Marys
Eastern and Middle summits
Zion National Park
April 19, 2010


Dominic carefully climbs up an unstable pile of rubble.

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The Three Marys
Eastern and Middle summits
Zion National Park
April 19, 2010

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The Three Marys
Eastern and Middle summits
Zion National Park
April 19, 2010

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The Three Marys
Eastern and Middle summits
Zion National Park
April 19, 2010


Dominic at the crux of this climb: a dangerously dirty obstacle. We must downclimb a pile of loose dirt and talus to a small, exposed notch atop a steep gully and then climb a low 5th class slab on the other side. It was impossible not to knock large rocks down into the gully and hearing them bounce down the mountain was chilling. There was a tremendous amount of objective risk here and I don't think I'd do it again. According to CP there is apparently an alternative to this that is of similar difficulty and I'd suggest checking that out first.

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The Three Marys
Eastern and Middle summits
Zion National Park
April 19, 2010


Looking back at the traverse across the top of the gully.

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The Three Marys
Eastern and Middle summits
Zion National Park
April 19, 2010

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The Three Marys
Eastern and Middle summits
Zion National Park
April 19, 2010


East Mary as seen on the climb of Middle Mary.

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The Three Marys
Eastern and Middle summits
Zion National Park
April 19, 2010


The East Temple (most distinct peak on the left) and Bridge Mountain (right) as seen from Middle Mary.

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The Three Marys
Eastern and Middle summits
Zion National Park
April 19, 2010


The Towers of the Virgin from Middle Mary. Meridian Tower is left of center.

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The Three Marys
Eastern and Middle summits
Zion National Park
April 19, 2010


The mighty West Temple lies behind the highly technical West Mary.

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The Three Marys
Eastern and Middle summits
Zion National Park
April 19, 2010


The West Temple's long south ridge.

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The Three Marys
Eastern and Middle summits
Zion National Park
April 19, 2010


Meridian Tower as seen from Middle Mary.

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The Three Marys
Eastern and Middle summits
Zion National Park
April 19, 2010


Dominic overlooks the town of Springdale.

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The Three Marys
Eastern and Middle summits
Zion National Park
April 19, 2010


Beginning the descent from Middle Mary.

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The Three Marys
Eastern and Middle summits
Zion National Park
April 19, 2010


Dominic scrambles back down toward the cruxy gully traverse.

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The Three Marys
Eastern and Middle summits
Zion National Park
April 19, 2010

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The Three Marys
Eastern and Middle summits
Zion National Park
April 19, 2010


Dominic rappels the low 5th class slab above the loose gully.

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The Three Marys
Eastern and Middle summits
Zion National Park
April 19, 2010


Dominic descends toward the saddle as we retrace our steps.

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The Three Marys
Eastern and Middle summits
Zion National Park
April 19, 2010


Dominic begins the descent of the key chute on East Mary's south side.

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The Three Marys
Eastern and Middle summits
Zion National Park
April 19, 2010


Looking down the chute toward Johnson Mountain and the town of Springdale.

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The Three Marys
Eastern and Middle summits
Zion National Park
April 19, 2010


We rappel the lower crux and self belay across the chossy little traverse below.

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The Three Marys
Eastern and Middle summits
Zion National Park
April 19, 2010


Dominic downclimbs the arete at the bottom of the chute. This is the final difficulty.